Chulu west Peak Climbing

These peaks are part of the Manang Himal, which are quite rightly included in the larger Damodar Himal, the eastern limit of which runs south from Chako and Peak 6687 in a north-to-south direction along the Hunlung Khola, Nar Khola and Phu Khola. To the south it is bounded by the Marsyangdi Khola and the Mesokanta La. To the west its limit is the Kali Gandaki and to the north the Parchekya La (5,447m).

There exists considerable confusion with regard to the name and location of the Chulu peaks and what summit actually constitutes Chulu West and Chulu East, since it is soon becomes apparent to anyone that has climbed in the range that several other summits close by, which are actually part of the Chulu massif, are not indicated on present maps of the area. For the sake of clarification, four summits can be included in the Chulu group, two of which are possible on the permit for Chulu West and two on the Chulu East permit. What is apparent is that the available trekking map is highly misleading.

The highest of these peaks, marked Chulu West (6419m) on the trekking maps, has a recorded altitude from at least two expeditions of nearer 6400m; this might more accurately be called Chulu Central. The NMA gives this an official altitude of 6,419m.

Many climbers are confused as to the exact location of these two peaks as the range has 4 or more summits in the immediate vicinity which are unmarked in maps of this area. As a result many climbing parties have mistakenly climbed one of these peaks thinking it to be Chulu West. It usually understood that with the permit to climb the East or West peak an attempt can be made to the nearby peak as well.

A climb of one or both of these peaks combined with Nepal’s most famous Arround the Annapurna trek make up for one of the most spectacular Himalayan trekking and climbing outings. Allow about 20 to 22 days to complete this climb and trek.

Route of Chulu West:

The obvious approach to this peak diverges from the main trail to the Thorung La pass, passing the village of Manang and Base Camp is established in a small valley to the North. From base camp the route follows a subsidiary North-West ridge that leads up to the main peak. An attempt to the peak and return has be done in a single day as setting camp up on the slope above base camp is not easy. An attempt of Chulu Central peak (6,419m) just east of Chulu West.


Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel, day at leisure (D)
Day 02 Day at leisure/ Hotel. (B)
Day 03 Trek to Chyamje (1410m) (B, L, D)
Day 04 Trek to Bagarchhap (2164m) (B, L, D)
Day 05 Trek to Chame (2713m) (B, L, D)
Day 06 Trek to Pisang (3185m) (B, L, D)
Day 07 Trek to Manang (3351m) (B, L, D)
Day 08 Trek to Leder (4250m) (B, L, D)
Day 09 Trek to Base Camp at (4950m) (B, L, D)
Day 10 For the acclimatization explore around the Base Camp (B, L, D)
Day 11 Climb to high camp (5600m) (B, L, D)
Day 12 Climb to summit (6419m) and return to High Camp (B, L, D)
Day 13 Back to Leder via Base Camp (B, L, D)
Day 14 Trek to Phedi (4480m) or High Camp (B, L, D)
Day 14 Trek to Muktinath (3802m) via Throng la pass (5416m) (B, L, D)
Day 15 Trek to Jomsom (2713m) (B, L, D)
Day 16 Spare day incase of flight cancellation (B, L, D)
Day 17 Fly to Pokhara and continue to KTM (1350m) / Hotel (B)
Day 18 Day at leisure/farewell dinner/ Hotel (B, D)
Day 19 Drive to Airport for return flight (B)