Amadablam is most popular and perhaps the most beautiful mountain in Nepal – viewed irrespective from any of its perspectives. It rises impressively a few miles across Mt. Everest & Lhotse over-looking the famed Tengboche monastery – which guards the entry into the Khumbu Valley.
The name Amadablam refers to an amulet box (dablam) worn by a mother (ama) in Sherpa / Tibetan language.
Our ascent route on this mountain is through the classic South West Ridge route which was first climbed by Michael Ward, Barry Bishop, Wally Romanes and Michael Gill on 13 March 1961.
Base Camp approach and the Climb:
To begin our climb, we assemble in Kathmandu and then fly to Lukla for the 11 day pre climb acclimatization trek to Kalapathar 5545m/18250ft for a close-up view of the South West face of the Mt. Everest – before arriving at the Amadablam base camp. Arriving at the base camp, we set up our camp on big leveled grassy field at an altitude of 4,500m/14,760ft, which is a traditional pasture-ground (chisa) for yaks from Khumjung village.
Above base camp we place an advance base camp at 5,200m/17,056 and two higher camps above ABC to prepare the summit push.
Onward camp I 5,815m/19,070ft, graceful moves are required to overcome some exposed rock sections known as ‘Yellow Tower’ to reach camp II at about 6,000m/19,680ft. This is a tiny camp barely enough for 2/3 tents on a very exposed section of the the ridge.
The climb after camp II to camp III (6400m/20,992ft) involves some superb alpine rock climbing, ice gullies, corniced ridge and ice wall. After camp III, a final pitch perfect 50 degree snow and ice face leads to the summit fo Amadablam.
Our Sherpa team will lead the route and fix lines and help set up the camps above base camp. However, eligibility to sign up for this climb requires that you are competent in alpine ice-climbing technique and have experience climbing on mixed terrain with packs.
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel.
Day 2: Preparation Day in Kathmandu
Day 3: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla
Day 4-11: Trek to Kalapathar and Amadablam Base Camp
Day 12-30: Climbing period
Day 31-32: Return back to Lukla
Day 33: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu
Day 35: Departure